All the Weathers

January 5-7, 2024

We really love so many things about living in Beaufort.  The town is right on the ICW and filled with beautiful old homes.  There’s a nice little downtown area with good restaurants.

We were hoping to get a table at the Old Bull Tavern if we got there right when it opened.  The only open seating was out in their courtyard where a few heaters were in but as soon as we were seated they built a fire in their fire pit.  We still had to wear our jackets but it was worth it.

Dinner was delicious – we learned from the owner that all of their meals use no more than five ingredients which keeps the freshness of their food at the forefront. 

We struck up a conversation with three women also were seated in the courtyard: a woman and her two daughters-in-law.  They stopped in Beaufort for dinner on their way from the Charleston airport to Savannah.  The mother-in-law was originally from Denmark, one daughter was from Australia (but lives in Bali) and the other is from Colorado.  The three had traveled from California, where the mother-in-law lives, as part of their extended Christmas vacation.

Fantastic dinner at Old Bull Tavern

As happens a lot in the winter, the weather abruptly changed overnight. 

I woke up around 6:00 on Saturday morning because Lailia was rocking like crazy.  It wasn’t terrible – until it was.  I had to make a quick exit to land.

27 mph gusts from the southeast?  Nope! Exited before it got even worse.
Watch the second mast from the right – it’s Lailia moving all over the place 🤢

John stayed back to tighten lines.  Our boat neighbors don’t live aboard but were called by the marina to secure their boat (their mast is right next to ours in the video).  John assisted them with some lines before joining me to go to the gym and brunch.

All the wind knocked a bunch of Spanish moss out of the trees.  While it’s normally silvery-gray, it greens up when it’s hydrated. 

Hydrated Spanish Moss

By the time we returned, the wind had shifted enough that Lailia was much more steady. 

Even better, by 2:00PM we had sunshine and temps in the low 70s (it’s great to live in the Low Country!).  I wanted to play around with my new camera, so I headed out to Cypress Wetlands while John watched the Vilanova game.

Even stronger winds are forecast for later this week.  John added lines off Lailia’s starboard to kind of spiderweb us in.  Hopefully, this will minimize us bouncing around too much. I may spend a night or two in a hotel if it’s awful (wind from the south-southeast whomps us hard; there’s not as much fetch from other directions).

Those gusts are not going to be fun
4 extra lines to spiderweb us in

On January 7 of last year we docked in Johns Island after a year of travel.  We weren’t certain how 2023 would play out – where we would be or what kind of work I would be doing.  I don’t think we ever thought about Beaufort/Port Royal as a home port – but here we are!

Yay

Days 264 & 265: Rock Hall Adventure

Rock Hall Public Dock, Rock Hall, MD (docked)

October 8 and 9, 2022

The wind started kicking up on Friday night and on Saturday morning there was a small craft warning for the Chesapeake Bay, but we were pretty determined to get to Rock Hall. Luckily, this was a short trip of about 11 miles total.

A sporty ride

Our friend Kim met us at the dock and took us to a great party. The food was amazing and the entertainment – live music and oyster shuckiing relays – made the bouncy trip worth it tenfold.

Shucking relay (language warning!)
Evening at Rock Hall

After a night at the dock, we walked to a coffee shop for breakfast before we left for Kent Island. Rock Hall has a large population of people who make a living fishing, oystering, and crabbing.

Trap stacks on the docks
Comorants hanging in the harbor

Sunday’s weather was far more lovely and we were able to get the sails up and turn the motor off for a while. The wind was perfect so we were speeding at 6+ knots/hour.

Such a great day on the water

We are starting to plan our route south. I have some upcoming work that requires us to have reliable internet and a few trips when I will need access to airports, but in between those days we’ll start heading towards warmer weather.

Buoy near the marina entrance

Days 238-241: Cross Island Trail

Piney Narrows Yacht Haven, Kent Island, MD (docked)

September 10-13, 2022

Our marina is very close to the Cross Island Trail that parallels Route 50. This trail is our path to lots of good food and pretty scenery. Since we don’t have a car, we use this trail a lot!

On Saturdays we like to go out to breakfast. There’s a nice coffee shop just over the Kent Island Narrows Bridge. This week they had really delicious individual blackberry pies.

Blackberry pie

The trail crosses a few tidal creek areas; it’s pretty interesting to see how it looks in different weather conditions.

Sunday wasn’t sunny at all

We normally head west but on Monday we went east. The trail here is mostly a wooden boardwalk over tidal marsh.

Monday afternoon

About two miles from our marina is a small park where there are plum trees galore. The fallen fruit is all over the trail and as they rot they emit a slight alcohol fragrance which isn’t terrible.

Wild plums

The fallen plums are apparently very attractive to butterflies.

We decided to grab sandwiches at the gas station on the eastern part of the trail (only the best for us!) before we walked back. I’m not sure I really thought about how many meals we would get at gas stations on our journey, but honestly, we’ve been pleasantly surprised at what we’ve gotten.

Later Monday evening

We did not get a photo of the doe and her fawn who were grazing between the boardwalk and the highway. Luckily when they ran, they ran parallel to the road – the outcome could have been really awful if they ran into the road.

Heading back after dinner

Today is Taco Tuesday so we went west on the trail and got tacos from the counter in a different gas station. Our boat neighbors joined us as we ate al fresco in the parking lot.

Taco Tuesday

These boat neighbors had a boat renaming ceremony on Saturday night – complete with libations for Neptune and Poseidon and a christening with a bottle of bubbly wine. They unveiled their boat’s new name, Gallivant, and we hope they will be blessed with fair winds and following seas.

The name reveal

John’s wrist is slowly getting better. He’s been able to manage the discomfort with Tylenol and Motrin. It’s still not 100% but he’s definitely getting there.

Sunrise on Tuesday

Days 236 & 237: Painting and Leaving

Galesville Harbor Yacht Yard (blocked) to Piney Narrows Yacht Haven (docked)

September 8 and 9, 2022

Yay! The sun is breaking through

John’s wrist felt okay enough for us to paint Lailia’s hull (and the sun came out, too).

Since the paint is high in volatile organic compounds, we made sure to wear protective gear like respirator masks, eye protection and painters’ suits. (The curve of the hull meant that we had to assume some odd positions, too, so we were also protected from getting paint on our clothes and in our hair.)

Everything except what’s under the wood is painted!

We managed to get the hull done, except for the eight places where the wood from the stands was touching the hull. Tomorrow we’ll have those pieces moved so we can touch them up. Once those pieces dry (about 4 hours), Lailia will be able to get back in the water.



The last little bit

The boatyard folks moved the stands first thing this morning so John got out and covered the spots before breakfast.

All done

Four hours later, we were ready splash (although there was no splashing involved). The process is very quick and easy, which seems amazing to me.

Getting back on the water is great – we will not miss using a tall ladder to get on and off Lailia, although we are really proud of our system for hoisting groceries onto the boat with a hook attached to a spring line.

The “grocery hook”
Ready to go

We had following tides as we left Galesville which helped move us right along.

Heading out of Galesville

A beautiful, breezy Friday afternoon is prime time for recreational boats on the Chesapeake, along with the cargo ships that stage here as they wait to go into Baltimore.

It was really busy out on the water today

As always, ospreys are hanging out all over the place.

Maybe letting the wind blow through her feathers?
This one has some dinner

We made it back to our slip long before nightfall and with enough time to Zoom with our younger son who has to work on his birthday tomorrow.

There are still some boat tasks to complete but in the last week we have complete the two largest ones – the survey and the bottom paint.

Moon at the marina

Day 1: and so it begins

Johns Island to Port Royal, SC

One day you finally knew

what you had to do, and began…

Mary Oliver (from “The Journey”)
Near Watts Cut

We motored on the Intracoastal Waterway for about 10 hours today. Motoring on a sailboat is slow – maybe 6.5 to 7 knots if we are lucky. Add in the twists and turns of the ICW and we made it to Port Royal, SC at the end of a fairly long day. Driving, this is maybe 90 minutes from Johns Island – unless John is driving. He can do it in about 80 minutes.

It was mostly overcast which meant we got some really magical glimpses of the sun breaking through here and there.

Near Brickyard Point
White pelicans

For me, one of the best things was seeing the wildlife: we saw several bald eagles, dolphins, and some white pelicans. We regularly see brown pelicans in Charleston, while white ones are much more rare. Google tells me that pelicans are the symbol of renewal which seems fitting to the occasion!

Lady’s Island Bridge
They opened the bridge for us

Lady’s Island Bridge is a swing bridge that connects Beaufort to the sea islands in the area.

Because we are expecting high winds for the next day or two, we’re at a marina. We’re safe (although the water is slapping the hull pretty loudly right now – that will change when the winds change direction).