Day 40: Exploring Bill Baggs State Park

No Name Harbor (anchored)

February 23, 2022

We have a wind generator and some solar panels. We’re not sure that either of these options provides a significant amount of power. John hooked up a flexible solar panel (we had 3 that were stored on our boat) today and found that one of them produced about 20 volts. We were able to charge my laptop with this, which is great. Keeping my laptop charged has been a challenge – we normally have to use either the generator or the motor, both of which require fuel. That means we have to always make sure we HAVE fuel. Using passive source of power like solar or wind frees us up a bit.

We dinghied to shore and strolled a trail along the water. Iguanas are abundant here. I liked seeing them on the rocks looking over the Bay. They’re an invasive species that has found a foothold here. They’re also the species that fall out of trees when they get cold – they’re hefty enough (maybe a pound and half or more) that I can see why that would be hazardous!

Iguana buddy sitting on the rock of the bay
Different buddy

There’s all sorts of non-iguana lizards, too. Apparently there are also CROCODILES here – I don’t need to see one of them.

Brown anole
Anhinga with cool eyes

We have had amazing weather – warm during the day with a cooler breeze at night. We don’t have air conditioning, so lower 70s with a breeze is great. We do a have fan that plugs into a 12-volt outlet (like a cigarette lighter) that we run at night. It not only cools our cabin, it also provides a bit of white noise that I need to help me sleep.

Cape Florida lighthouse

There were some structures on stilts off the end of Key Biscayne – they are actually what is left of Stiltsville, a community of clubs and fish camps that originally were built in the 1930s. These are the ones that survived Hurricane Andrew; none of these were built in the early years of Stiltsville. Today they’re part of the national park system.

Stiltsville

Tomorrow we will probably go ashore to explore another park trail. There’s also supposed to be a free transportation system that will pick us up and take us to a local store. We might check that out – we always have room for more groceries like cheese and bread. I have been worrying a bit about toilet paper (we only have about 30 rolls) so that’s on our list.

Social media has been a great source of information. Today we learned that there is an inexpensive service who will pick up and deliver laundry. Since the closest laundromat is in Miami, which would require Uber, we think we’ll avail ourselves. I kind of struggle with having people do tasks that I am capable of doing, though.

Sunset from our cockpit

Day 39: Water, Water, Everywhere (and lots of drops to drink)

No Name Harbor  (anchored)

February 22, 2022

Although we are surrounded by water we have been really careful to conserve out fresh water when we aren’t docked because we are limited to what’s in our 160 gallon water tank.  We fill a bowl or pot with soapy water to wash (dishes and bodies).  At the age of 54 I have learned how to wash my hair in the sink.

Today we hooked up our reverse osmosis water maker and it works!  We purchased it used from boat neighbor in Johns Island and had waited until we were in clear water to try it out. This is good news for us because we won’t have to try to find marinas with fresh water (a precious comodity in the Bahamas).  We’ll still practice conservation because it’s a slow process – 30 gallons an hour or so.

That’s fresh water – we were flushing the system
This is the pump that draws in sea water and pushes it to the reverse osmosis filters. 
The white tubes are the reverse osmosis filters

Because NOTHING is easy with boat life, we had to discard Plan A (running it in the head with hoses through the portlights) because we couldn’t generate enough power through the outlets and didn’t have a strong enough extension cord to reach from the generator to the water maker.  We (mostly John) lugged the two heavy components up on deck and made fresh water!

Boat neighbors

One of our boat neighbors stopped by and told us about a free service that will pick us up and drive us to stores in Key Biscayne. Another boat neighbor’s dogs have been entertaining me as they lounge around their boat.  The dolphins swam right next to Lailia, which was so cool.

The sky behind us looks like a watercolor painting

We have noticed that people gather at the park by the entrance to the harbor to watch the sunset so we dinghied over.  It was definitely a gorgeous show tonight.

The handiest man I know

And…the dinghy needed John’s attention.  He fixed it while I checked out the sunset and got rid of our bag of trash

Our friends from John Island plan to join us here tomorrow to wait for the next good weather window to head to Bimini.  I am hoping to explore the park a bit tomorrow, as well.

Day 38: Heading South

New River Downtown Docks to No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne (anchored)

February 21, 2022

We left the docks before sunrise this morning and we’re out on the ICW early enough to avoid a lot of boat traffic. 

From the hatch in our salon – that’s the moon
Heading outbound on the New River

We passed two major ports on our way to No Name Harbor: Port Everglades and Port of Miami.   Lailia was dwarfed by the cruise ships and freighters.

Cruise ships entering Port Everglades

Most fixed bridges (the ones that don’t open) on the ICW have at least 65 feet of clearance from the waterline.  Lailia’s air draft – the height of the top of our mast and antennae – is 53ish feet. While it always seems like we’re not going to clear, we have a good 10+ feet of clearance for most fixed bridges –HOWEVER the Julia Tuttle Bridge on the ICW in Miami has a fixed height of 56 feet.  A lot of boats “go outside” to avoid this bridge: they head out to the ocean at Port Everglades and come back in at Port of Miami.  We decided that the ocean was a bit too rough so we went the Tuttle Bridge route. Knowing how close we were – and knowing that there were some waves that might push us up a few more feet was nerve-wracking.

Most bridges have tide boards that show how much air draft is available.  They’re usually written in really large numbers that are easy to read from a good distance.  For whatever reason, the Tuttle Bridge numbers were difficult to read until we were right up on them.

I am pretty sure I held my breathe until we were clear of the bridge.

The tide board showing the air clearance
We just cleared it

And then… We called ahead to one of the next bridges, the West Venetian Bridge, who responded by saying they were non-operational.  We called Boat US to see if they could help us figure out how we could reroute to EAST Venetian only to see West Venetian open.  We still are unclear what happened, although we did hear multiple times on the VHF that West Venetian was non-operational. it was the 12h restricted bridge of the day of a total of 16 we crossed under today.

We’re at the blue dot

The anchorage at No Name Harbor is lovely, though, so all of those bridges were worth it.  We saw two manatees in the water outside the entry to this very protected harbor.  After we anchored we saw a pod of dolphins feed for a good 15 minutes.

This anchorage is in a state park, so it’s monitored by rangers.  There’s also easy dinghy access and a place to take out trash.  The water is very clear, so tomorrow we can try our water maker.

Two dolphins feeding
Boats outside No Name Harbor in the Biscayne Bay

We will probably wait here for a good weather window to head to Bimini.

Day 37: A Day of Rest

New River Downtown Docks (docked)

February 20, 2022

We are leaving this dockage early tomorrow morning to make use of the slack tide (when the water is almost still).  We should be able to untie and turn around, then motor outbound on the river.  The tide will start coming in as we proceed which is beneficial when we have to stop at the two bridges (and maybe the railroad bridge if it’s down) because we won’t be pushed into the bridge.

We plan to get back on the ICW and head past Miami to No Name Harbor where we’ll anchor and wait for a weather window.  No Name Harbor is a staging area for boats heading to the Bahamas so it’s likely we’ll find others who will be heading east when we do.

Bimini is almost directly east of Miami but since the Gulf Stream will push us north, we will leave from further south.  The Gulf Stream moves north at about 2.5 miles an hour- Lailia comfortably motors at about 6 miles an hour, so for every hour we are in the stream, we will move (approximately) 6 miles east and 2.5 miles north.

The white arrows show the current in the Gulf Stream – Alice Town is in Bimini

We did another trip to Publix (John actually did two) today.  Since we don’t have a car our purchases are limited to what we can carry.  I tried to buy food for the week that we won’t easily get in the Bahamas (like meatballs).  We also don’t have a true freezer (just a really cold metal box in our fridge) so we really can’t just grab extras to freeze for later. 

I saw an iguana on the way to the store, so there’s that!

My first iguana this trip

Tonight we’re refilling our water tank with fresh water   We hope to find a spot with clear water to try out our water maker further south of here.  We originally thought we might make some salt water in a bucket to test the water maker  but read that we don’t want to use “city water” because chlorine can damage the reverse osmosis membranes.  There’s heavy boat traffic here so we don’t want to use the system here and foul the membranes.

This dockage has been pretty entertaining.  We haven’t seen many super yachts this weekend, but we have seen all manner of smaller motor boats, paddle boarders, kayakers, water taxis, tiki bar boats, and the multi-level faux riverboat, The Jungle Queen.  The Queen does both a daily tour and a daily dinner cruise.

Tiki bar boat

We will have to go under approximately 13 bridges tomorrow.  My enchantment with bridges has definitely diminished.

Day 36: Five Weeks

New River Downtown Docks (docked)

February 19, 2022

John changed both fuel filters today. It makes sense to get this done before we make the jump to the Bahamas.  Of course access to complete this task requires removing the steps and laying on the sole of the boat and kneeling into the engine room on the other side. John is so very mechanically inclined.

Of all the boats we have seen, the food boat may be the coolest.  It’s nowhere near the size of some of the super yachts we have seen (some of which are over 125 feet) but it’s perfect for its role.  It makes us miss food trucks, though.

Food boat

It was a perfect south Florida day to take a stroll along the River Walk – sunny, breezy, and warm.  While it’s very urban here, I did get to see a bunch of ducklings as well as tropical flowers.

That last little duckling buddy
Lailia from the other side of the River Walk

One of the benefits of being docked here is how close we are to “stuff’ – John was able to go to the auto parts store to get more oil (good to have on hand) and we were able to meet at a brewery and go to Publix.  Fort Lauderdale, at least this part, is pedestrian friendly which is a plus for us.

The wind changed direction and with this came a band of rain.  We knew this weather window was short and didn’t want to push our luck heading east.  Hopefully the window in the forecast for next weekend will hold and we will make the crossing to Bimini. 

Changing weather

Day 35: Big Boats and Maintenance

New River Downtown Docks (docked)

February 18, 2022

Our dockage is between two bridges so sometimes we get a line of boats waiting for a bridge opening.  Today there were five boats lined up. There’s constant communication between boats and bridge tenders.  It’s really interesting to listen to the system of warnings and requests on VHF radio.

Three minute snapshot of boat traffic next to Lailia

Lailia needed an oil change. Some major yoga positions are required to complete this -John is amazing at figuring out how to reach everything. I never had to change the oil on any house in which we lived.

Getting ready to change our oil

There’s a gorgeous breeze tonight so John and I are watching Better Call Saul up in the cockpit rather than sitting in the heat down below. We also get to hear all of the music playing on al of the passing boats. We’ve noticed that it’s usually the small boats playing the loudest music.

We have some more maintenance tasks to complete as we wait for a weather window next week

Day 34: Downtown Docks

New River Downtown Docks (docked)

February 17, 2022

How wonderful to have a quiet night of sleep and a hot shower in the morning!

As narrow as it is, there are still loads of yachts in New River. Today we watched one being towed with towboats at both the bow and stern. The towboat at the stern was traveling backwards in case it needed to correct course quickly.

The stern tugboat

John Ubered to a laundromat and caught up on our laundry. We also walked to Tarpon River Brewery on the way to Publix.

There is a wild flock of Muscovy ducks roaming near where we are tied up. Tonight we even saw some ducklings.

As we headed back to Lailia this evening we saw a yacht turn around right off our stern. It was a bit disconcerting because it seemed as if the yacht was only feet from us.

There’s a very small weather window tomorrow that we will not be able to use. We’re hopeful that another will open up next week so we can head to Bimini.

Day 33: The Long and Winding Road

Lake Boca Raton to New River Downtown Docks (docks)

February 16, 2022

Last night was tough: lots of high wind gusts pushed Lailia all night long.  That random rolling plus the squeaks of the line securing our tender to the stern made it very difficult for me to sleep.  We needed to haul our anchor and head further south.

That’s a robust wind

For the first time on this trip we had something wrapped around the chain.  I was able to cut it off with scissors when we pulled it up – it was a combination of plastic, fishing line, some hooks, lures, and weed.  Side note: I ran this through Google images to see if I could learn what the plastic thingy is.  Google’s best guess is some modern art thing.

The original
Lots of possible visual matches

The Miami Boat Show starts today so finding slips is really difficult. As we motored we kept calling marinas and finding they were at capacity – until we called New River Downtown Docks who actually had space for us.

So, after going under nine bridges (waiting for them to open) in 17 miles, we turned west off the ICW and motored up the New River

They call this space the tunnel which fits- it deep and narrow, with boats lining the sides.  As we waited for one of the bridges on the tunnel to open, the strong current moved us near a boat and I had to reach out and push us off. It was my Wonder Woman moment.

Our dockage in relation to the ICW

We are tied to the sea wall and have an electric hook up and water. The River Walk has a lot of restaurants with happy hours and outdoor seating. After being onboard since Saturday it’s so good to walk around.

Lailia from the other side of the River Ealk
View of the River Walk… We motored past here to get to our dockage. It’s not very wide!
So good to be on land

We plan to be here for at least another night as we wait for the weather to improve. We are really protected from the wind here. We are, once again, close to both a bridge and trains

Lizard buddies

Day 32: Gray Day

Lake Boca Raton (anchor)

February 15, 2022

Such a windy and cloudy day. There’s no place to land the dinghy so we just stayed on Lailia. We’re looking at possible anchorages south of here in hopes we can go ashore.

The weather today
These wind gusts are no joke

The wind has been pretty steady today and the gusts are moving us all over, but our anchor is holding.

Looking forward to better days

Not being able to go ashore is difficult – we want to stretch our legs, get rid of some trash, and hit a grocery store.

Day 31: Another Uneventful Day

Lake Boca Raton (anchored)

February 14, 2022

Last night was cool and windy.  Rather that low 70s from Saturday night, the temps dropped into the mid-50s.  This is perfect sleeping weather.

This wind means that Lailia seems to be in constant motion around her anchor.   It’s not very rolly but we swing in an arc. The video shows how much we move on about a minute. (John says this is a yawner video. I…don’t disagree.)

John let more chain out to increase the scope due to the high winds, just as a precaution and too ease my mind. I don’t actually fully know what that means but he assures me that it will somehow help keep Lailia from dragging her anchor.

Today was a work day: I had three separate Zoom meetings and John did some preventative maintenance by cleaning the raw water strainer. The raw water strainer helps keep the engine from overheating but it can clogged by all the stuff in the water.  In order to access it, John had to remove the ladder and the counter area under it.  Because Lailia makes us work to keep her healthy, John had to do this work on his hands and knees.

John working

This was yet another uneventful day – that’s not a bad thing, actually.