Days 96, 97 & 98: Relentless Winds

Black Point Settlement, Exumas, Bahamas (anchored) (still)

April 21, 22 and 23

The wind is still blowing although it has died down a few miles per hour (from 25+ to 20+/mph).  It’s really just a constant, relentless force that we can always hear and feel.  It does keep the temps really comfortable and there’s an abundance of sunshine, but sometimes it just feels like it’s wearing me down.

Years ago a friend who lived outside Miami described his day as “another shitty day in paradise” and I laughed.  Now I get it – the water is blue and the scenery is outstanding, but some days it’s still flat out boring.  We’ve been in this anchorage for two weeks; we didn’t move during a good weather window because I was working.  

Rays from the government dock (with some floating trash)
Yes, the water is that clear

We have some boat buddies here – in fact, one couple left and came back.  There are a few small cafes and even smaller grocery stores. 

The wind has kept the mailboat from bringing supplies this week which means there’s not a lot of fresh stuff in the grocery store and the cafe is out of a few items on its menu.

In many ways cruising in the Bahamas is complicated.  Everything takes some extra effort and nothing is very spontaneous.  It could be an adventure – trying to make meals from canned food, for example – but there’s always a few extra steps (like having to light the propane stove as well as having limited availability of canned food in stores). 

A boat buddy and I were comparing this life to being settlers – we buy our groceries in general stores that get weekly deliveries (if they can).  We  walk everywhere.  We have to think about fresh water and power usage daily, because neither is unlimited.  We have limited refrigeration and no freezers.

In short, some days are just shitty days in paradise.



Today was less shitty because we decided to explore a bit.  We walked over to the Exuma Sound side of the island (we are anchored on the Exuma Bank side).  The bank side is relatively shallow (we’re anchored in water that’s between 8.5 and 12 feet of water).  The sound side is deep and open to the winds from the east.  It’s really rocky with some dramatic cliffs. The ocean was really pounding this side today.

The Exuma Sound side of the island – the waves are pushing up the water

There’s a really cool blowhole there plus a cave that’s on the beach but above the waterline.  Our boat buddies, Casey and Andy (with Frank, their greyhound) met us on the beach.

Frank
Cool cave
Hermit crab buddy

We had dinner at Lorraine’s Cafe and got fresh coconut bread from her mom.

A shark was waiting just under the ladder where we tied our dinghy.  I am pretty sure this was just a coincidence.

Hanging by the ladder – the boards add to the charm

We’re hoping the wind dies down a lot as is forecasted for Monday and Tuesday so we can get out of this anchorage.  Many of our boat buddies are beginning to head north since we want to be closer to the United States by early June, which is the beginning of hurricane season. 

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Author: Chris McLean

Sailor, reader, baker, nature lover.

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